Summer in the Swiss Alps makes for a refreshing break

15th Aug 18 | Lifestyle

The mountains are a blissful alternative to a beach holiday during Europe's scorching heatwave, says Josie Clarke.

It’s the middle of a blazing summer heatwave and even those still claiming that they “love this kind of weather” are starting to doubt themselves. For the first time since I moved to England, the thought of a beach holiday sweltering under more scorching sun holds no appeal. I have long wanted to visit Europe’s mountains in summer, not least because I spent much of my childhood reading and re-reading Heidi. The Swiss Alps are beckoning and it is time.

A walking trail above the Suvretta House hotel (Josie Clarke/PA)
A walking trail above the Suvretta House hotel (Josie Clarke/PA)

Less than a couple of hours after arriving at Zurich airport, I am on a little red train winding its way through the mountains en route to St Moritz in the Upper Engadine valley. The snow melt is rushing along the rivers in the valley below, and the ski fields are now hiking and biking trails, traversing pine forests and wild flower pastures – all with a soundtrack of gently tinkling cow bells.

The sun in St Moritz is gentle, temperatures are in the low 20s, and even a brief rain shower feels refreshing and restorative after weeks of dusty, dry heat back home. I have a weekend of alpine rejuvenation ahead, from my base at Suvretta House, an exclusive retreat with a minimum two-week stay policy for its well-heeled guests over the peak winter Christmas/New Year period.

During that time, the glamorous ‘grand dame’ of the mountains is a fairytale destination with a private ski lift outside its front doors, providing access to the vast Corviglia area and grounds featuring outdoor ice skating and four ice curling rinks.

Come summer, it offers 580km of hiking trails on its doorstep, while the chair lifts and mountain railway remain open for adventurers wanting to hike the peaks, or simply make it to one of the resort’s high-altitude restaurants for an Aperol spritz and plate of pasta.

Josie climbs a viewpoint in the Engadine Valley (Josie Clarke/PA)
Josie climbs a viewpoint in the Engadine Valley (Josie Clarke/PA)

I start my break by setting off on one of the hotel’s mountain bikes, along a trail that leads from the Suvretta along pine and wild flower-edged tracks, to a lookout with spectacular views over deep blue lakes and forest-clad peaks still tipped with snow.

With a guide from the Suvretta Sports Bike School, we drop down to the lakes and follow a trail along their edge before cycling to the town’s aerial tramway, whose first stop is practically at the door of the mountain restaurant Chasellas.

have lunch at a #swiss #alpine restaurant in #st.moritz #switzerland

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The morning’s activity means I sweve the salads and relax with a meal more suited to a freezing day on the slopes – a huge plate of local Engadine sausage and fries and two glasses of red wine.

My decision to head next to the hotel’s spa has nothing whatsoever to do with my enormous lunch (although I will admit to catching the chairlift back down to the hotel rather than walk) and everything to do with wanting to experience the ‘signature treatment’. It promises to “induce a deep-rooted connection with the magical environment unique to the Suvretta’s mountain location” with the use of essential oil from the local pine trees.

An hour and a half later, I am more relaxed than I thought possible and I smell like a Christmas tree. That night I have the best sleep I have had in years.

Suvretta House's vintage Ford (Suvretta/PA)
Suvretta House’s vintage Ford (Suvretta/PA)

The hotel’s vintage Ford truck – complete with liveried drivers – is on hand to drive guests to an idyllic spot with magnificent views of the mountains for a barbecue lunch. I opt instead to spend the next day hiking up hills for an hour and a half, accompanied by the sounds of the stream below and the distant tinkle of cow bells.

The track winds its way towards another, higher, mountain restaurant called Trutz, where today’s activities demand veal pasta, an Aperol spritz and a glass of red wine, all accompanied by even more staggering views than the day before.

Trutz restaurant (Josie Clarke/PA)
Trutz restaurant (Josie Clarke/PA)

It seems impossible that these mountains could not have provided the inspiration for Heidi’s adventures, and sure enough, I learn that the hut used as her grandfather’s cabin in the 1952 film of the story sits just above St Moritz.

The next morning, I set off on one of the hotel’s electric bikes for the 15-minute ride up to the hut. It has a bench in front for resting and gazing at the scenery, which stretches from wild flowers at my feet to majestic mountains.

Taking the chairlift back to Suvretta (Josie Clarke/PA)
Taking the chairlift back to Suvretta (Josie Clarke/PA)

Other visitors might choose to play golf, go goat trekking, take a glider flight or sail on the lakes, but visiting a scene from one of my favourite childhood stories – set high in the alpine meadows – is everything I had hoped it would be as a seven-year-old, and a charming way to end my break. Now I just need to make it back in winter for more red wine and pasta.

How to get there

Doubles at Suvretta House ( start from CHF 410 (£314) half board in the summer. For stays of two nights or more, the room rate also includes complimentary access to all Upper Engadine resort lifts and the entire public transportation network throughout the summer season.

SWISS (; 0345 601 0956) flies to Switzerland from London Heathrow, London City, Manchester, Birmingham, Edinburgh (seasonal during summer) and Dublin from  £55 one-way (Economy Light fare only, includes hand luggage).

The Swiss Travel Pass (; 00 800 100 200 30) offers unlimited travel on consecutive days on rail, bus and boat. From £197 in second class.

For more information on Switzerland, visit

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