These were the most talked about shows of London Fashion Week - here's why18th Sep 18 | Fashion
From Beckham to Burberry, all the news from the spring/summer collections.
Today, as catwalks are being dismantled and the giant blow-up Burberry bear that’s been seated at Marble Arch is deflated, the world’s most in-demand models, make-up artists, editors and buyers are hot-footing it to Milan for the next round of shows, which means London Fashion Week is officially done and dusted for another season.
And what a season it’s been.
We’ve seen much-anticipated debuts, the return of established names and the revamp of one very famous brand, all in the space of five action-packed days.
So what does all this tell us about what’s in the store for spring/summer 2019?
Here’s all the news you might have missed from the biggest shows at the British style extravaganza…
Style icon turned designer Chung has long been a regular on the fashion week front row, but this season she was behind the scenes, holding the first ever show for her eponymous clothing brand.
The 34-year-old was on a flight of fancy for spring, calling the collection ‘Arrivals and Departures’, which meant a holiday wardrobe of floaty midi dresses, safari style tailoring and travel-friendly jumpsuits, all in a muted 1970s colour palette.
While other designers try to – and need to – grab headlines with zany clothing and make-up, Chung kept it simple and played to her major strength: Knowing exactly what women want to wear.
Celebrating 10 years of her own eponymous brand, Victoria Beckham showed in London for the first time after a decade on the New York schedule, but insisted the collection wasn’t a retrospective.
Of course, there were the signatures Beckham has become known for – breezy silk midi dresses, sharp tailored jackets and bodycon knitwear for instance – while there was also a freshness in the use of colour and the sexiness of it all.
Spaghetti strap and racer back slip dresses were as revealing as we’ve seen on the VB catwalk in some time, and flashes of scarlet packed a punch.
It was the skinny ankle-split trousers, however, which Beckham herself wore, that we think will be the big hit of SS19.
“This show is a celebration of the cultures, the traditions and the codes of this historic fashion house and of the eclecticism that makes up the beautifully diverse United Kingdom,” said Riccardo Tisci, Burberry’s newly appointed chief creative officer.
In typically rebellious Tisci style, the show began with a slew of ladylike pencil and pleated skirts, pussy-bow blouses and paired-back trench coats, the bait and switch coming in the second half…
The soundtrack surged and out came a riot of skin-tight zippered miniskirts, corseted dresses and punky vinyl coats.
Judging by the reaction on social media, Burberry purists weren’t best pleased with the latter but the elegant opening impressed many.
If it’s not broke, don’t fix it, they say, and that seems to be the mantra of Julien Macdonald, who returned to the London schedule after a season’s sabbatical.
Consequently we were treated to the usual all-out glam fest, a parade of glittering, sharp-shouldered gowns and extremely skimpy minidresses.
Alongside the usual black and silver, there were pops of bright yellow, tangerine and fuchsia – expect to see these colourful creations on the red carpet once spring rolls around.
Alexa Chung wasn’t the only one thinking about travel for spring. At Preen, there was a nomadic theme and the show traversed eras too as vintage
ruffles were clashed with cagoules and hiking boots.
Designers Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton said they had been thinking a lot about displaced peoples this season, but this wasn’t just lip service: The pair have pledged that a percentage of sales from the collection will go to charity Help Refugees.
Rich fabrics? Check. Fabulous florals? Yep. Glamorous gowns? Plenty of them.
All of the elements that make Erdem a favourite of red carpet walkers everywhere (not least the Duchess of Cambridge) were present on Monday, the stunning collection bolstered by a fascinating backstory.
Erdem Moralioglu said he was inspired by Fanny and Stella, a pair of nineteenth century cross-dressers who were, given fashion’s current obsession with all things genderless, well ahead of their time.
Combining mannish tailoring with voluminous dresses in raspberry and duck egg blue, this opulent Victoriana look was a resounding victory for Erdem.
© Press Association 2018